Sweet Innocence

 First off: Happy New Year!!!

It's nearly 2am here in Nashville and the fireworks are still booming in my neighborhood.

So I thought I'd do a quick entry (or so I intend, who knows how much I'll spit out since I've begun typing) for this crocheted top that I decided to call Sweet Innocence before I even started crocheting it. I saw a pic online of a sweater with this vertical long chain & cluster of stitches pattern and instantly loved it. I started  going to town make the first version, which I liked the body, but hated it as it progressed and started making sleeves for it. I'll share a Youtube video that shows a bit of it at the end of this post. I've already frogged the sleeve I started to use to finish up another project (or maybe the last part of the second sleeve for this one?). But anywho, I redid it and made the body portion a very basic, simplistic version of its predecessor. Initially I thought that maybe I could make and sell a series of these for my House Of Womack brand, but Idk if I want to make anymore soon, lol. Currently I only have this one pic of the finished sweater...fashion shoot possibly to come in the near future, haha. I should also say that crochet is not my forte, but I'm growing to love it even more. My recipe / notes below.

To be clear, this is not really a pattern. This is just me winging it and going back over my notes to remember what all I did. If you want to make the same style or type of sweater, you can adjust it however your little heart desires! (Btw, as much as I love having a MacBook Pro, it's a pain to do a lot of typing on. Gimmie a good ole traditional computer keyboard any day!)

I chained 70 stitches with an I hook for the length of the body portion. I switched to an H hook, chained 2 (for first/turning stitches, row edging, whatever ya consider it), turned the length of chains, then double crochet into each chain (skipping the previous 2 chains after switching to the H hook) all the way down the length. Chain 2, then turn he work, then double crochet back down the length again to create the second row. Boom, one edge for seaming has been created. Ok, so here's where the real fun begins. This next row is to set up the pattern. Once this row was established, I just followed it going back and forth until I had the width I wanted. Before turning the 2 row that was just created, chain 3, then turn. Triple crochet 1 stitch into the next 8 stitches. Chain 7, skip 7 stitches, triple crochet 1 stitch each into the next 3 stitches. Chain 7 stitches, skip 7 stitches, triple crochet 1 stitch each into the next 3 stitches. Keep this pattern up for the row until the last 11ish stitches. After ending a series of chaining 7 and skipping 7, there are 4 left (in my case). Triple crochet 1 stitch each into the last 4 stitches, chain 3 turn. Now, you can follow the pattern going back and forth however many times you wish. Once you've got the width, chain 2 stitches, double crochet 1 stitch in each stitch for the second to last row. Chain 2, turn, and double crochet in every stitch for the final row. One side finished. Repeat all over to create a second panel for the other side. Everything can be adjusted. The initial sweater I made had variety in the series of chain sequences and clusters of triple stitches so that it wasn't so even throughout the body. The main thing is that I wanted was a higher series of triple crochet stitches at the bottom to create a wider band, and less for a narrower collar area.

Stitch up the shoulders, leaving however much you want for the neckband (collar). Stitch up the sides, leaving enough space for sleeves. I just slip stitched my seams.

I crocheted my sleeves in the round. Starting at the armpit, chain 4, skip 1 stitch (along the body seam), triple crochet into the next stitch. Chain 1, skip 1 stitch, triple crochet into the next stitch. Continue this triple crocheting 1 stitch, chain 1 stitch, skipping one stitch pattern for each row to make a mesh type of texture. Whenever you end a row, chain 3 to start your next row and begin the mesh pattern again so that the triple crochets will fall in line with the single chain stitches from the previous row, and the the chain 1, skip one stitches will fall in line with the triple crochets. Hard to explain but easy peasy to do. Once the length has been met for the sleeve, I made the final row by doing a double crochet decrease into ever stitch. Then finish off and weave in the ends. Repeat the same method for the second sleeve. Boom, ya got yoself a very open and breezy sweater!

Here's a video talking about this sweater (and other projects), it should be queued up to the time the I start talking about knitting and crochet:

Colorful Sweater

 Alrighty, I'm back and I'm on my MacBook so hopefully this will all go smoothly in the way of updating this blog. Details of how I made this sweater below.

(Finished front of my Colorful Sweater)

I have several knitting and crochet projects I've been working on lately: a few sweaters (jumpers), halter/crop tops, hats, a scarf, some hand painted yarn, and several wips! 

But let's focus on this colorful, rainbow sweater. This is the first sweater that I have successfully and fully finished knitting! I've attempted to knit sweaters several times, but I'd usually end up frogging them. I wasn't happy with how they were working up, or else I'd get bored and felt the yarn would be better used for other things. This one I was dedicated to making and finishing. I ended up using several skeins of acrylic yarn- good ole Red Heart Super Saver and the Mainstays brand from Walmart.

Here's a couple of pics I took while in progress for the Instagrams @nashvillegirl via my phone (the full sweater pics are via my actual camera, woo)

And of course the first pic at the top is the finished sweater, the front view. This final pic is the back view. 

I don't have an actual pattern for how I made this sweater. However, I do have some notes. Usually when I make things, I keep notes of how I made it, just in case. I used a long tail cast on for this sweater, which a fitted cast on is my normal go-to, but I thought maybe it'd have a little more give or stretch to it by using the long-tail method. The bottom half is knitted in the round, then half placed on stitch markers to separate the front and back when it gets to the point where the armpits will be. I recommend keep track of tally marks for rows every time you make a project where there re separate pieces that would benefit to having match lengths (such as the front and back, as well as separate sleeves).

All the number of stitches and number of rows will vary based on each person's size and how they swatch (you better swatch so that you can figure out how to make your own fit the way you want it to!). I'm fairly small with long arms and a long torso, and since I wanted mine baggy with balloon sleeves, this is how mine went.

Cast on 124 stitches on size 5 29" (I think...) circular needles. Join to knit in the round.

Knit 2 x 2 ribbing for 10 rows.

The rest of the sweater is in stockinette stitch. When I say knit, I mean knitting stockinette in general. In the round, it will all be knit stitches. When the front and back are split, it'll alternate between knit and purl rows.

I had knit 51 rounds (switching colors whenever I felt, just so the stripes weren't even for each color) before splitting the front and back where the armpits of the sleeves were going to begin. I knitted 62 stitches, and then places the remaining 62 stitches on a long length of contrasting yarn as a stitch holder.

The first 62 stitches remained my live stitches, which I chose to be the front. I knitted 41 rows, switching out colors for stripes. Then I knit 18 stitches (for one shoulder, bind off 26 stitches (neck), and then knit the last 18 stitches for the other shoulder. I then knit 7 rows for the current shoulder, and bind off the 18 stitches. I reattach my yarn to the first shoulder, knit 7 rows, bind off 18 stitches.

Then I start on the back portion of the sweater by putting the yarn back on my needles and reattaching yarn. I knit 46 rows. Then I knit 18 stitches (shoulder), bind off 26, and knit 18 stitches (shoulder). I knit 2 row, then bind off. Reconnect the yarn o the other shoulder, knit 2 rows, then bind off stitches.

At the point, the body of the sweater is knitted. Stitch the front and back shoulders together. Now we're ready for the sleeves!

I used a 16" size 5 circular needles and began picking up stitches around one of the arm holes. 

Pick up 77 stitches, join and begin knitting in the round. Knit 38 rows. On this next row I decreased a single knit stitch at the beginning of the row by knitting 2 together, which isn't necessary but the sleeves were pretty wide and I didn't really have a plan on how I was going to decrease. It at least saved a little bit of yarn, haha. I knit 29 more rows. The next 4 rows I decreased 1 stitch by knitting 2 together at the beginning of each row. These 4 decreases, plus the previous decrease, left me with 72 stitches. This is because I need a number of stitches divisible by 4 to create my 2 x 2 ribbing for the cuff. I began the 2 x 2 ribbing pattern and continued for 14 rows. I felt my sleeve/cuff was long enough at this point, so I loosely did a basic bind off. 

.Sidenote: Just like the body, I switched colors whenever, making sure that none of the stripes were the same about of rows per color.

Now, do the same for the other sleeve. Pick up 77 stitches, knit in the round for 38 rows. Decrease 1 stitch, knit 29 more rows. Decrease 1 stitch each row for the following rows leaving 72 stitches on the needles. Begin 2 x 2 ribbing for the cuffs and knit 14 rows, then bind off. 

Now, finally the collar. For mine I picked up 72 stitches (again, divisible by 4) on the 16" circular size 5 needles, and joined in the round for 2 x 2 ribbing. I did 8 rows and bind off. Weave in all the loose ends and boom! Ya got a finished sweater!

Another sidetone, it's best to work n the loose ends each time you change colors or finish stitched up seams. It just makes things so much easier and finishing the project more fun in the long run!